Tripoli (Trablus), a 85 kilometers north of
Beirut, has a special character all its own. Thanks to its
historical wealth, relaxed lifestyle and thriving business
climate, this is a city where modern and medieval blend easily
into a lively and hospitable metropolis. Known as the capital of
the North, Tripoli is Lebanon's second largest city.
Forty-five buildings in the city, many dating
from the 14th century have been registered as historical sites.
Twelve mosques from Mamluke and Ottoman times have survived
along with an equal number of madrassas or theological schools.
Secular buildings include the hammam or bathing-house, which
followed the classical pattern of Roman-Byzantine baths, and the
or caravansary. The souks, together with the an agglomeration of
various trades where tailors, jewelers, perfumers, tanners and
soap-makers work in surroundings that have changed very little
over the last 500 years.
TRIPOLI IN HISTORY
Habitation of the site of Tripoli
goes back to at least the 14th century B.C., but it wasn't until about the 9th
century B.C. that the Phoenicians established a small trading station there.
Later, under the Persians, it was home to a confederation of the Phoenician city
states of Sidon, Tyre and Arados Island. Built on the trade and invasion route
near the Abu Ali River, Tripoli's strategic position was enhanced by offshore
islands, natural ports and access to the interior.
Under the successors of Alexander
the Great during the Hellenistic period, Tripoli was used as a naval shipyard.
There is also evidence that it enjoyed a period of autonomy at the end of
Seleucid era.
Under Roman rule, starting with the
takeover of the area by Pompey in 64-63 B.C., the city flourished and during
this period the Romans built several monuments here. The Byzantine city of
Tripolis, which by then extended to the south, was destroyed, along with other
Mediterranean coastal cities, by an earthquake and tidal wave in 551.
After 635, Tripoli became a
commercial and shipbuilding center under the Omayyads. It achieved
semi-independence under the Fatimid Dynasty when it developed into a center of
learning.
At the beginning of the 12th century
the Crusaders laid siege to the city, finally entering it in 1109. The conquest
caused extensive destruction, including the burning of Tripoli's famous library,
the Dar II-'Ilm, with its thousands of volumes.
During the Crusaders' 180-year rule
the city was the capital of the "County of Tripoli." But Crusader Tripoli fell
in 1289 to the victorious Mamluke Sultan Qalaoun, who ordered the old port city
(today Al-Mina) destroyed and a new city built inland near the old castle. It
was at this time that numerous religious and secular buildings were erected,
many of which still survive today.
During the long Turkish Ottoman rule
(1516-1918) Tripoli retained its prosperity and commercial importance and in
these years more buildings were added to the city's architectural wealth.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL
EXCAVATIONS
Tripoli has not been extensively excavated
because the ancient site lies buried beneath the modern city of
Al-Mina. However, a few accidental finds are now in museums.
Excavations in Al-Mina revealed part of the ancient southern port
quay and a necropolis from the end of the Hellenistic period. A
sounding made in the Crusader castle uncovered Late Bronze Age,
Iron Age, Roman, Byzantine and Fatimid remains.
The Citadel
Overlooking the city is the imposing Citadel of
Tripoli known as Qal'at Sinjil (Saint Gilles) which has been
renovated and changed many times during its history. Today the
castle's main features are an octagonal Fatimid construction
converted to a church by the Crusaders, some Crusader structures
of the 12th-13th centuries, a number of 14th century Mamluke
additions, as well as additions made by the Ottomans in the 16th
century. The present state of this huge fortress (140 meters long
and 70 meters wide) is largely the result of extensive
restoration work by Mustapha Barbar Agha, governor of Tripoli at
the beginning of the 19th century.
The octagonal Fatimid
construction in the Citadel
Church of St. John of
the Pilgrims Mount
Significant remains of this Crusader church were
found in the Maronite Cemetery of Saint John about 200 meters
south of the Castle on Abu Samra hill. There are two joined
chapels, the larger of which has a semi-circular apse. The
smaller one, with a rectangular apse, was reserved for funerary
use. The church was surrounded by a large Crusader cemetery
The Great Mosque
Begun in 1294 and completed in 1315, the Great
Mosque was built on the ruined 12th century Crusader cathedral of
St. Mary of the Tower. Its large courtyard is surrounded by
portico s and a domed and vaulted prayer hall. Inside, one can
still see elements of Western architecture from the old church,
including the northern entrance and the Lombard style bell tower
which was transformed into the minaret.
The many foundation plaques and decrees
inscribed in the Great Mosque and its surrounding madrassas
not only inform us about the building but reveal details of the
daily life of the Mamluke period.
Taynal Mosque
This important mosque was built in 1336 by Saif
ed-Din Taynal on the site of a ruined Crusader Carmelite church.
The adjoining domed mausoleum holds the tomb of the founder. Some
elements of the original structure were re-used in the mosque,
for example, the two Tows of granite columns with late Roman
capitals which stand in the middle of the first prayer hall. The
entrance of the second prayer hall is a unique example of the
architectural decoration in Tripoli during the Mamluke era.
Al-Muallaq Mosque
The name means "hanging mosque,"
possibly because it is on the second floor. This small mosque, built in the
middle of the 16th century, has a plain whitewashed interior with steps leading
down to an attractive courtyard garden. The minaret is octagonal and unadorned.
Burtasiyat
Madrassa-Mosque
The beautiful Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque was
built during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D. This
domed structure has a square minaret erected above the entrance
arch and is ornamented with double windows which have black and
white stone arches. The dark stone portal is decorated with
stalactites and the mihrab is covered with an ornate golden
mosaic.
Al-Qartiwiyat
Madrassa
This madrassa is known for the fine workmanship
of its ceilings decorated with honey-comb patterns and
stalactites, and its elegant facade of alternate black and white
facings. Built during the first quarter of the 14th century A.D.,
Al-Qartawiyat is probably Tripoli's most ornate building and the
only one with a prayer hall covered by an oval dome.
Madrassa al
Tuwashiyat
Built during the second half of the 15th
century, this structure and its elaborate mausoleum are
constructed of sandstone in decorative black and white patterns.
The portal is higher than the facade of the building and
decorated with shell motifs embellished by radiating zigzag
motifs, stalactites and twisted colonnettes.
Khanqah
This unique building in Lebanon was constructed
during the second half of the 15th century to house Muslim
mystics or Sufis. It is designed with an open courtyard and pool.
The courtyard is surrounded by small rooms and a raised platform,
or iwan, behind an arch of alternating black and white
stones. The arch is supported by granite columns.
Hammam 'Izz ed-Dine
This public bathing-house was given to the city
by its Mam-luke governor 'Izz ed-Dine Aybak. The governor, who
died in 1298, is buried in a mausoleum beside the hammam.
In building these baths, he used choice remains from the Crusader
church and hospice of Saint James. The front portal is decorated
with an inscribed fragment between two Saint-James shells, and
the inner door is surmounted by the pas-chal lamb. The Hammam
'Izz ed-Dine was in continual use until recently and it is now
under restoration.
Hammam el-Abed (near
Khan es-Saboun)
Tripoli's only functioning hammam is
Hammam el-Abed, probably built at the end of the 17th century. It
has the typical pierced domes of Mamluke and Ottoman era public
baths. The interior, with its cushions, central fountain and
traditional fittings, is a living museum.
Hammam al-Jadid
Built around 1740, and called the "New
Bath," this is by far the largest hammam in the
city. Although it has not been in operation since the 1970's, its
faded grandeur still stirs the imagination.
Khan Al-Khayyatin
The Khan Al- Khayyatin or Tailors' Khan, is one
of the oldest in Tripoli, dating to the first half of the 14th
century. It was probably built on the remains of a Byzantine and
Crusader monument in the center of the ancient commercial suburb
which controlled passage over the Abu 'Ali River. Thus, this has
a different plan than the others in the city. The restored
structure consists of a long passageway with tall arches on each
side and ten transverse arches. Just at its western entrance
stands a granite column sur mounted by a marble Corinthian
capital.
Khan Al-Misriyyin
The Khin Al-Misriyyin (Caravansary of the
Egyptians) was probably built in the first half of the 14th
century. The traditional arcaded two-story an open courtyard with
a fountain in the center.
Souk Al-Haraj
A unique sight, this covered 14th century bazaar
has a high vaulted ceiling supported by granite columns which may
have originally been part of Roman or Crusader structures. A
total of 14 granite shafts can be seen along the north, south and
east sides. Today this space is occupied by sellers of floor
mats, pillows and mattresses.
Lions'
Tower
While most of the numerous coastal towers and
fortifications which protected Tripoli during Mamluke times have
disappeared or been encroached upon by modem buildings, the
mid-15th century Tower of the Lions is still remarkably
preserved. It was given this name in the 19th century because of
the lions carved in relief that once stood above the entrance.
The tower is actually a fortress two stories high with lofty
vaulted ceilings. The west portal is in the typical Mamluke black
and white stone pattern. From the outside you can see how the
builders placed Roman columns horizontally in the wall as
reinforcements.
TRIPOLI TODAY
Modern Tripoli, which has a population of about
500,000, is divided into two parts: El-Mina, (the port area and
site of the ancient city) and the town of Tripoli proper.
The medieval city, at the foot of the Crusader
castle is where most of the historical sites are located.
Surrounding this is a modern metropolis which is occupied with
commerce, banking and recreation. The area known as
"at-Tall," dominated by an Ottoman clock tower (built
in 1901/2) in the heart of downtown Tripoli, is the
transportation center and terminus for most taxi routes.
When shopping in the old souks or downtown area,
remember that gold is a good buy. Other popular items are
Tripoli's famous sweets and traditional olive-oil based soap,
water pipes and brasswork. Al Mina, the port area, is a good place
to find seafood restaurants and fish markets.
The city's most comfortable hotels and
Western-style restaurants can be found in the beach resorts south
of the city.
TRIPOLI INTERNATIONAL
FAIR
Tripoli has a permanent fairground designed by
the famous Brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer. Here important
exhibitions, trade fairs and other events regularly take place.
IF YOU HAVE TIME
Offshore Islands. Just offshore
is a string of small islands. The largest, own as the Island of
Palm Trees or Rabbit's Island, is now, a nature reserve for green
turtles and rare birds. Declared a protected area by UNESCO in
1992, camping, fire building or other depredation is forbidden.
This island also holds Roman and Crusader remains.
Qalamoun, south of Tripoli, is
known for its brass industry. The roadside is lined with small
workshops and showrooms where brass bowls, candlesticks and other
objects are hammered out in the old tradition.
NOTES FOR VISITORS
A Tourism Information Office (telephone
06-433590) is located on Abdel Hamid Karami Square.
Wear comfortable sturdy shoes for walking
around the old town and the souks. Women should be
prepared with head scarves if they wish to visit mosques.
Although some of the monuments are kept
locked, keys can usually be obtained from a nearby shop.
